Little India is not the darling new ethnic enclave where the hip go for a good dish of Chicken Tikki Masala and colored bindis (the dots women wear on their foreheads).
No, this bustling strip of restaurants, sweets shops and clothing stores has been a haven for more than 20 years to Indian and Pakistani residents, who come here to stoke their memories of home.
You can see it when you walk down the street: families crowded around tables eating potato-filled samosas or coconut barfi (sweets made of sugar, milk and coconut) or drinking a mango lassie. In sari shops, preening seamstresses surround mothers and daughters. And just down the street, men are buying a tandoor gas barbecue at the Indian appliance store.
This fiercely independent business community makes up less than three blocks of Artesia's 1.6 mile length, and new businesses continue to open every year. A few years ago, the merchants had a sign placed on the Riverside (91) Freeway to alert drivers that an exit at Pioneer Boulevard means welcome to Little India.
It may not be Mumbai (now Bombay), but it's the closest thing we've got that doesn't require a passport. Here's a quick sample of some of the area's highlights:
FROM THE OLD COUNTRY: Clothing shops in Little India offer in outfits like the sari that Kaeleya Rainn tries on recently, aided by Tahira Ali.
Indian food: South or North, it's all good.
Udupi Palace (South Indian vegetarian cuisine), 18635 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 860-1950:
My father, originally from Bombay, never ate meat until he walked through the airport gates of America and discovered pepperoni pizza. On a lunch date at Udupi Palace, he showed me a world of vegetables that I didn't know he knew existed. This busy restaurant offers an eclectic menu, with appetizers, curries and dessert. But I thought it shined with its selection of dosas (thin rice crepes) and uthapams (very large pancakes made with rice and lentils.) Dosas are offered plain, with cheese or hot chutney, or stuffed. We ordered the Masala Dosa ($6.95) that came filled with spicy potatoes and onion, the Onion and Hot Chili Uthapam ($5.25), and the Poori Bhaji curry (a fried puffy bread served with chickpeas, $6.95). And to drink, try a badam (almond) milkshake or a sweet/salted lassi (yogurt drink.)
Ambala Dhaba, 18413 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 402-7990:
North Indian cuisine is what most people associate with Indian food because of the popular dishes of chicken curry, chicken tandoori, basmati rice topped with raita (plain yogurt with cucumbers) and a basket of warm naan (Indian handmade tortilla.) The food can taste ordinary because it is often mass-produced and served buffet style at restaurants. But at Ambala Dhaba, a small, informal restaurant tucked in a corner between a jewelry store and international video store, the flavors and spices from this region of India are showcased, simple but flavorful. With plastic forks and paper plates, we dined on vegetarian samosas ($2), Dhaba Chicken (yogurt, mint and green chilies with garlic, $9), Bhindi Masala (green okra, onions, tomatoes, $9) and Cholay (chickpea curry, $7).
Indian Sweets and treats
Saffron Spot (in the Little Indian Village center), 18744 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 809-4554:
The Saffron Spot is an ice cream parlor with a twist. It caters to the palate of the motherland with flavors like saffron, mango, pistachio, chai, rose and almond. The menu is regularly updated with new flavors. The traditional Indian ice cream, kulfi, is served at the Saffron Spot: This is a rich, sweet food made with boiled milk and cream. Kulfi Falooda (kulfi pieces served on a bed of noodles and rose syrup) is also served. If you want to skip ice cream, try a chai latte, or a masala milk flavored with saffron, almonds and cardamom.
Bombay Sweets and Spices, 18526 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 402-7179:
Pioneer Boulevard has dozens of these little candy shops that entice your sweet tooth. Trays are piled with square bites of coconut or pistachio barfi and brown jamun (flour and milk soaked in sugar syrup). And if you are craving a little salt, try the hot mix (similar to Chex mix), a blend of peanuts, chickpeas, almonds, lentils and hot spices.
Clothing, jewelry and home accents
Rivaaz House of Fashion, 18639 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 809-9900:
There is an abundance of sari shops on Pioneer that starts even before you enter Little India. If you are in the market for a sari (three-piece outfit with a blouse, petticoat and 6 yards of fabric) or a lengha (the more formal skirt, blouse and scarf), find a place where you feel comfortable exploring the materials and styles that these outfits have to offer. At Rivaaz, I found friendly people who spoke expertly on the various ways to wear a traditional sari. Prices vary but typically start at about $200. There is also a great sale rack that could be the perfect place to find your first sari.
Cottage Art, 18619 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 924-6268. www.cottageart.com:
I think it was the two walls filled with shoes and sandals that made it love at first sight for me and my sister at this great little bohemian shop. The store is a definite must-see if you are looking for modern clothes with Indian flair. Cottage Art offers reasonable prices and a great selection of sale items. Skirts, tops, dresses, handbags and shoes can be bought, as well as bedding, curtains and pillows for that extra spice in your living quarters.
Prasiddhi, 18709 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 402-3222. www.prasiddhiarts.com:
This new store offers traditional Indian crafts to accent your house. It has rosewood prayer altars, bronze and metal statues, ivory carvings of the Hindu elephant god Ganesha and sandalwood carvings that retain their smell for up to 50 years.
Sheela, 18505 S. Pioneer Blvd., (562) 809-0227:
It's all about gold when it comes to Indian jewelry, which is sold by the gram and can range from a small pair of studs ($50) to heavier chandelier earrings ($400). Wedding jewelry is hugely popular at the store. And if you need a little luck, money or love on your side, owner Sheela and her staff can help you select gems to fit your spiritual needs.
Off the beaten track
NDM Dance Studios, 17711 S. Artesia Blvd., (562) 402-7761. www.ndmdance.com:
If you love the dance moves out of Bollywood, drop by NDM Dance studios, where choreographer Nakul Dev Mahajan teaches some basic moves from Hindi movies. It bills itself as the first and only dance school in the nation that focuses on Bollywood dance. It caters to children ages 5-15, so parents in adult classes are welcome to bring their kids. The studio's dance troupe recently performed on the NBC soap opera "Passions." A trial class costs $15, and if you are shy, take a one-on-one class for $50.
Naz 8 Cinemas, 6440 E. South St., Lakewood. (562) 866-2444. www.naz8.com:
Admit it, you love the singing and dancing that bursts from the big screen during a Bollywood movie. Well, Naz 8 Cinemas in Lakewood, a short drive from Little India, can bring you this joy. Movies from India and Pakistan are shown here daily. From epic histories to dancing love stories, all the Bollywood hits are shown here. All movies are $5 on Tuesday.
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